Thursday, July 25, 2013

Day 44---The Great Plains are endless….Dodson to Saco

51.8 windy miles, 5:02, 10.2 mph

It cooled off nicely last night, and it was great to sleep in a real bed in a real bedroom in a real house, my first time since Sun Valley.  Made me a bit homesick actually.  Dawn is getting earlier as I travel east in the Mountain Time Zone, and as I had fallen asleep at 9, by 5 AM is was getting light and I just dozed until I could smell the bacon cooking for breakfast down stairs.  Sandy is a great host, and was up and getting breakfast ready for me and Steve.

A great big ranch breakfast, eggs, bacon, potatoes and pancakes, with home made wild cherry syrup, yum!  I was off by 720, and planned to do just 50 miles today into the headwind.  The cold front had come through, and it was cool and cloudy, a real joy, despite the headwind.  After the last few days of convection oven temps and headwinds, it was nice to just pedal along, albeit more slowly than I would have liked.

A little under two hours and I found myself in Malta, another of the improbably named towns along the Hi Line route.  It bears no resemblance to its namesake, nor can any of the its namesake’s foods be found here, even in the Albertson’s.  This Albertson’s has no deli, sparse fresh fruit and vegetables, but very helpful staff.

Got buns and lunchmeat, and bananas (bananas are ubiquitous so far, something to be grateful for), and cash back, and headed out side.  I took a little tour around town, and Malta’s best days, like almost all the towns up here, are well past.  Typical aging population, lots of abandoned houses, most retail places closed up, streets and sidewalks unmaintained, looking a lot like you might imagine a town had been depopulated by some disease, like people just left in a hurry.

Then it was back onto the plains, the endless plains.  I was a bit excited to be riding on an old decommissioned stretch of US 2 for a few miles, as it passed the Bowdoin National Wildlife Refuge.  I went past some of the first nicely maintained farm houses I’ve seen on this side of the Rockies, and followed the road until…..oh no, bad gravel ahead, just as I found the entrance to the refuge.

I went to the Visitor Center, which was improbably lovely and new (clearly Max Baucus has been bringing home the federal bacon) and much nicer than any refuge I’ve seen in California.  Turns out this refuge is on an old piece of the Missouri River that was abandoned when the last ice sheet pushed the river 50 miles south, and directed it away from Hudson Bay, where it used to head.

I talked to one of the refuge officers, and it turns out that many east bound cyclists show up at the refuge, because the Adventure Cycling Association map apparently says this is a good alternate route.  It’s not, so beware!  The only reasonable way out was to back track two miles and ride two miles of gravel back to US 2.   The gravel was quite loose so it was slow going, but all in all it was a bit of a nice diversion from the endless headwind and pedaling along the highway.

As I crested a long, gentle climb, the views opened up, and I spied a cyclist a mile or so ahead on the other side of the road.  As you do, we stopped to chat.  John is a retired physician from near Sault Ste. Marie, Canada, living on St Joseph’s Island.  He’d been on the road a month or so, and been as frustrated by the mosquitos as I have.  He also has given up on camping, as none of the campgrounds along this route have any indoor place to hide from the bugs, and the only alternative is to be a prisoner of your tent.

It felt good to commiserate with another solo cyclist, and we were reluctant to part, but off we went, John to the west (and his terminus, Calgary) and me to the east, and the promise of a motel in Saco, another 15 miles distant.

After last night’s epiphany concerning surviving the plains, I spun along, looking at the plants, smelling the smells, and admiring the profusion of growth in this country that experiences almost 9 months of below freezing temperatures.

Today when I stopped to take pictures, the cool temps and the wind kept the bugs at bay, and I got off some good shots.

After another hour and a bit, I finally spied the elevators that signal the next town, and Saco appeared on the horizon.  It’s another of the sad, blow away towns out here, with a nice little park next to their National Historic Monument 30s gas station.  The Saco Motel has seen better days, but it’s clean, tidy and cheap! ($40/night for one person and the internet works great).  The owner was out, but the lady who owns the cafĂ© next door checked me in, and after looking at some emails, eating a sandwich, and taking a shower, I fell fast asleep. 

The nap was a good antidote for the feeling of hopelessness that this part of my trip would ever end.  I’m still chafing at the idea of only making 50 miles a day across the plains, because I had counted on a tailwind to power me across here.  And my delayed entry into Williston to a week night is making it very iffy that I will find a hotel room.  Happily, I’ve been in contact with a couple who are on Warm Showers and they’ve offered me a shower and tent camping in their backyard.  Ah, life’s lessons, things never turn out just the way you expect.

I’m writing this up in the local bar, which turns out to be quite nice, with a pressed tin ceiling and a lovely wooden bar that dates to the 1920s, which was probably the last time there was any real prosperity here.  Sadly, they don’t offer much in the way of food options, just frozen stuff microwaved, or a cooked burger (my choice).  The bartender is lovely, recently moved here from Klamath Falls, Oregon.  It seems that eastern Montana beckons to the folks of interior Oregon and Idaho.

There are four local guys here, one other woman, and me.  I’m guessing the usual number for a Thursday night, although the bartender tells me that she usually closes up around 2 am, then drives 42 miles home to Glasgow, which is tomorrow’s destination.

And just to add a little more atmosphere, another 100 car train is racing through town, with hundreds of containers, no doubt headed for the Port of Seattle.

Just as I left the bar, three young cyclists, Ken and Amy from Vancouver, and their friend Matt from England, appeared, looking pretty worn out.  They’d done 70+ miles in the wind at an average of around 12 mph.  Between their youth and being able to draft, they’d done quite a bit better than my 10.2!  It seems they’ve taken to yelling at the prairie too, and they are also sick of the unexpected headwinds.

I wanted to linger and chat, but I also feel like I really need to write tonight, so I bid them goodnight as they headed into the bar.  I envied them their camaraderie a bit, as suffering is so much sweeter when you can suffer with someone!  Perhaps I’ll see them at breakfast in the morning before heading out.  They also plan to hit Glasgow tomorrow night, so I might run into them there. 

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