Monday, June 17, 2013

The Route and estimated arrival dates

Since everyone keeps asking, here's a rough route and schedule.  If any of my tech savvy friends has an easy way for me to add the map to the blog let me know.  All I've seen is really complicated stuff!

Berkeley to St John's Newfoundland
Miles
Berkeley-Sun Valley 900 30-Jun
Sun Valley-Glacier 500 12-Jul
Glacier-Minot 650 23-Jul
Minot-Kief-Fargo 300 30-Jul
Fargo-Duluth 250 4-Aug
Duluth-Copper Harbor 275 9-Aug
Copper Harbor-Marquette 150 12-Aug
Marquette-St Ignace 165 15-Aug
St. Ignace-Traverse City 127 18-Aug
Traverse City-Muskegon 190 21-Aug
Muskegon-Ann Arbor 175 24-Aug
Ann Arbor-Windsor 120 31-Aug
Windsor-Buffalo 250 5-Sep
Buffalo-Albany 317 11-Sep
Albany-Brandon VT 110 15-Sep
Brandon VT-Bath ME 240 21-Sep
Bath ME-St John NB 280 26-Sep
St John NB-Sydney NS 320 3-Oct
Sydney NS-St John's NL 550 15-Oct

Sunday, June 16, 2013

Day 5---more nice farmland, and a little bit about this part of California

I was up and out today by 7, and headed north out of Red Bluff along the Sacramento River.  Red Bluff was as far as steamboats could navigate the Sacramento River, and the evidence of its prosperity is everywhere in the grand buildings, parks and trees from the 19th Century.  It's a very pleasant town to ride through early in the morning.

I stopped at the lovely Ide Adobe State Park, with its iconic 400 year old valley oak tree shading the old adobe, which sits overlooking the river.  A gorgeous river up in these parts, but one of the most abused rivers in the US, converted into plumbing for the lawns of the Southern California desert.



At 7:15 AM it was already bright and warming up, but the park itself was quiet and empty.  Standing by the adobe, which sits next to a perennial creek, I tried to imagine what the river was like in 1850, when millions upon millions of salmon ran up the river every year, once in the spring and once in the fall.  How bounteous California must have seemed to those early eastern settlers.  Fish for the taking, and everything you put in the ground and watered flourished.  Surely the beginning of the American love affair with all things Californian!

Unfortunately, modern California intruded----as soon as I got on the bike, I realized my back tire was squishy.  Another flat....this time from a tiny piece of metal that was probably part of a truck's rebelted radial tire that was left on the side of the road.  You see hundreds of bits of truck tires every day on the busier stretches, and you have to wonder why the US, alone among developed countries, allows its highways to be strewn with so much of this type of debris.  You just don't see it anywhere I've cycled around the world.  Maybe one of my friends has the answer to that question!

The next couple of hours were a pleasant rolling ride along the Sacramento River, where the volcanic flows from Mt. Lassen have very clearly cut the river off at various times in its history.  Super interesting geology, and volcanic rock studded pastures.  It reminded me a lot of the foothills around Chico, for those of you who've been lucky enough to do the Chico Wildflower.  Mts. Lassen and Shasta were always in view.

A very protective mama bird on the Jellys Ferry Bridge over the Sacramento.  Any idea what bird this is?


The last hour was a boring ride through some of the worst of the American built environment.  Ugly sprawl along the old US 99.  How a city of 100,000 can have so many miles of sprawl is a testament to the failure of planning!

I'll have some more to say about planning and economic development, as I've found that the I-5 corridor here in the valley is a good example of how badly the current model functions.  No time for that tonight, as I have to get to bed by 830, so I can be up early to beat the heat on my big climb up into the Cascades.

Saturday, June 15, 2013

Day 4---great cycling, relaxing afternoon

Had a hard time getting up this morning, but was out and on the road before 7:30. Good thing too, since there was little wind, and it promised to heat up fast.  Did almost 50 miles in under 4 hours today!

It was a lovely morning, and riding on the quiet Route 99W was just wonderful.  Hit Orland just before 9, as the Farmers Market was opening up and it was lovely. Scored yummy cherries and apricots, then went to Alta Marie's Bakery and got the most awesome cheese Danish pastry ($1.50!).




Some folks at the Farmers Market said hi, an older (than me) couple and their daughter.  Turns out they had retired to Orland (cheaper by a lot than Chico) and lived on one of the gorgeous tree-lined streets in an old arts and crafts house.  Orland benefits by being close to Chico, but all of the business is out on the freeway.  Quite sadly, this pattern has been repeated all the way up the valley.

Next stop was Lucero Olive Oil, just outside Corning.  A great story...son of olive farmers goes off to Cal Poly SLO to major in engineering.  Comes home to Corning to start up an olive oil biz in 2003, now doing very well, with a really nice modern mill and retail shop. All of the young people working there (mostly Chico students) were super enthusiastic about my trip, and made me promise to send them a link to my blog!  I have two 100ml bottles of Lucero Olive Oil for my trip across the Oregon desert! 

Buzzed through Corning itself, not much to report, some nice old buildings, but mostly empty or in marginal use, but lots of potential.  Just after Corning Mt Shasta comes into view, at the Tehama County line.  It will be my cycling companion for quite a few days, just as Lassen has been the last two days.  The ride to Red Bluff is lovely, mostly through Sacramento River bottom land, with lots of historic farm houses that were obviously built on smaller farms in the old days.

Mt Shasta in the distance


Red Bluff is a lovely little town, the county seat, and has a downtown that is much nicer than I remember, having stopped to take a look around ten years ago or so.  I've enjoyed my stay in the Jetsons style motel here, with a giant king bed!  Even had a nice phone call from my friend Jill tonight.  Maybe she'll join me on the Erie Canal!





Off to Redding tomorrow....

Friday, June 14, 2013

Day 3---windier, hotter and lessons of the road

I got up extra early to beat the heat today, but awoke to a steady 20 mph wind, with gusts up to 30.  At least it was cool, even if in the first two hours I only managed 14 miles on the dead flat!  Today was supposed to be an 'easy' day, 48 quick miles up the valley, then the pool and catching up on correspondence.

NOT.



A long almost 6 hour slog---- after the winds died down a bit, it got HOT.  91 the last hour or two, then I got a flat.

Nothing like your expectations making you have a bad day, one of those lessons that bike touring is good at teaching.

In fact, it was pretty interesting.  Mountains on both sides, and I poked around all the little towns that I've flown by on I-5 for years. 

I'm pretty sure this was an eagle, watched it fly around, and then hang out on the rice paddies.

Who knew that Arbuckle had a cute, shady park, and yoga every morning across the street?  Or that Maxwell High School had only 350 kids 50 years ago, but now has over 1000?  Testament to the growth of the local Latino population.  Maxwell also has a groovy Farmers and flea market on Friday and Saturday.  Could have been someplace in Mexico.....

The Catholic Church in Maxwell.

Finally got into the motel around 3:45 and hit the pool.  Chinese (local white people Chinese I'm afraid) and an ice cream bar from the AM/PM.  It's a shame someone doesn't fix up the downtowns of these little towns.  Everything is at the freeway ramps....really looking forward to getting off the I-5 corridor, although 99W has NO traffic, and is in great shape.

Thursday, June 13, 2013

Day two, Fairfield to Dunnigan, windy and hot

I couldn't sleep in this morning, no matter how hard I tried, so I managed to get off just around 9.  I was super tired after yesterday, and not getting in and having dinner til 10.  I knew I was super tired, when I started looking at the odometer about 10 miles into the day, and along one of most beautiful rides in the Bay Area--Pleasants Valley Road. 

The morning temps were nice, and by the time I got to Winters it was warming up.  The restaurant took forever, and I didn't push off after lunch until 1230.  The wind was picking up from the north (the direction I was headed) and it was a long flat slog (14 miles) to Esparto.  I was feeling a bit sick and dehydrated by then, so I did a five minute shut eye in the park, and drank a full bottle of water.  Since it was mile 35, I looked around to see if there was someplace to stay, nope, next stop had to be Dunnigan.

 
First amber waves of grain!


Windy, hot, and beautiful rolling hills for the next 19 miles.....I put one of the pics on Facebook, you can check it out there.  When I rolled out of the golden hills into the green valley, I could spy the motel, woohoo! 

The pool was great, dinner so-so, but Richard and Amy's chocolates capped off the day.

Early to bed tonight....

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

The first day! Oh no, where's my phone?

I finally left home around 1130, and rather quickly spun my way up Euclid.  Took a good bye pic of the Bay, and put my phone back in the map case compartment of my handlebar bag.  Apparently I didn't zip it up, not for the first time I might add.  I often forgot to zip it up when Beth and I were cycling in NZ this year.
Here's where I forgot to zip it up!

Anyway, I stopped to take a photo at the Contra Costa County line, about 2.5-3 miles along from where I stopped on Euclid.

No phone....  I was so mad at myself and so embarrassed.  I turned around and started looking where I thought I'd hit some bad bumps.  No phone.  I asked a couple of cyclists coming my way if they'd seen it, no luck.  Went back and forth once on Wildcat, then back to Euclid where I took the photo.

As I was looking on Euclid, one of the cyclists I'd asked, asked me if I'd found it.  Another cyclist, coming up the hill, stopped and asked me what I'd lost.  Well when I told her it was my phone, she was awesome, and said,  "what's the number, I"ll call it?"  Then she saw my stuff and asked about my trip, and said "this is the first day of your spirit journey, so the world is trying to tell you something."  How right she is!

So we fired up Where's My Droid, which my friend Mike Ray made me put on my phone.  It actually gave us an address in Wildcat, and wouldn't you know, when Caroline called my phone at the address, there it was!

Magic!  And she's neighbors with Ben and Rick, how cool. Even knows Yuri the dog.  The first big kindness of my trip.....

I stopped to see Kathy, and Kathy and Bob's in Martinez, many hours late!  Then pushed on to Fairfield where I'm really exhausted tonight.

I'll figure this thing out soon, and add pics, and a map.